What is Niacinamide ?

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. It's found in many foods including meat, fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables, and cereals. Niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin that easily penetrates the stratum corneum skin layer when applied topically. This has made it a popular active ingredient that is added to many skincare products.

What are the Skincare Benefits of Niacinamide serums?

Hyperpigmentation and Uneven Tone Reduction Benefits of Niacinamide Serums

Hyperpigmentation is caused by the deposit of melanin (skin pigment) which is produced in skin cells called melanocytes into the epidermis skin layer cells called keratinocytes. There are various factors that cause hyperpigmentation such as acne, sun exposure, hormonal changes, and drug side effects. Niacinamide has been shown to inhibit melanosome (cell storage vessel for melanin pigment) transfer from melanocytes to the keratinocytes causing dark marks, patches and spots. In one study, niacinamide inhibited up to 68% of melanosome transfer decreasing hyperpigmentation and increasing skin lightness ⁽¹⁾.

Anti-Aging Benefits of Niacinamide Serums

Niacinamide is a powerful antiaging agent that works in several ways to slow down the skin aging process:

• Niacinamide is a powerful antioxidant that inhibits lipid peroxidation from UV radiation and environmental pollutants. ⁽²⁾
• Adult stem cells are present in the bulge region of the hair follicles and the basal layer of the epidermis and they play a critical role in maintaining the structural and functional integrity of the skin through self-renewal. Niacinamide affects the proliferation and differentiation of various skin stem cells. In particular the effect of Niacinamide on skin stems cells results in an improved expression of collagen in the skin layers.⁽⁴⁾
• The majority component of the extra cellular matrix of your skin is collagen and elastin which provide the skin’s strength and elasticity. Niacinamide has been shown to increase the expression of collagen and elastin, and fibrillin, and reduce elastase activity (Elastase is an enzyme that breaks down elastin).
• Topical Niacinamide improved tissue regeneration by increasing fibroblast and vascularization in skin wounds thereby improving healing and repair. ⁽⁵⁾
• Niacinamide also enhances the structural and functional integrity of the skin barrier by increasing the synthesis of lipid components.

Oil Production and Pore Size Reduction Benefits of Niacinamide

Sebum produced from skin cells on the face is responsible for the formation of acne and acne lesions. Sebum control is thus an essential component of any skin care regimen. Niacinamide applied topically has been proven to significantly reduce the production of sebum from your skin and this also reduces the size of your pores leaving you with a smooth even texture. 

Anti-Inflammatory Benefits of Niacinamide

Niacinamide is well known to decrease redness and reduce blotchiness. It does this by inhibiting inflammatory factors in your skin. Studies have shown that Niacinamide suppresses inflammatory interleukins and protein levels. Niacinamide also attenuated the synthesis of inflammatory mediators, such as prostaglandins in epidermal keratinocytes. ⁽³⁾

What are the side effects of Niacinamide Serum?

Niacinamide is well tolerated with a very low side effect profile. The most common side effect listed with topical niacinamide is slight irritation which dissipates with continued use. Always patch test any serum before use.

How to use Niacinamide Serums? Best Practices

When using a niacinamide serum, apply the serum before applying any heavier creams with oils. Niacinamide must also not be mixed with Vitamin C as it can oppose the effects of Vitamin C. For the best results, use your Niacinamide products at night and Vitamin C products during the day.

Niacinamide Products available in South Africa

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

SkinCeuticals Serum 10

Niacinamide plus Zinc Serum

Niacinamide References

• Br J Dermatol. 2002 Jul;147(1):20-31.doi: 10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x.
• Kamat, J.P.; Devasagayam, T.P. Methylene blue plus light-induced lipid peroxidation in rat liver microsomes: Inhibition by nicotinamide (vitamin B3) and other antioxidants. Chem. Biol. Interact. 1996, 99, 1–16.
• Bierman, J.C.; Laughlin, T.; Tamura, M.; Hulette, B.; Mack, C.E.; Sherrill, J.D.; Tan, C.Y.R.; Morenc, M.; Bellanger, S.; Oblong, J.E. Niacinamide mitigates SASP-related inflammation induced by environmental stressors in human epidermal keratinocytes and skin. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2020, 42, 501–511
• Tan, C.L.; Chin, T.; Tan, C.Y.R.; Rovito, H.A.; Quek, L.S.; Oblong, J.E.; Bellanger, S. Nicotinamide Metabolism Modulates the Proliferation/Differentiation Balance and Senescence of Human Primary Keratinocytes. J. Investig. Dermatol. 2019, 139, 1638–1647.e3.
• Trauma Mon 2015 Nov;20(4):e18193.doi: 10.5812/traumamon.18193. Epub 2015 Nov 23.